SKU: 49407539574
jade vine plant for sale

jade vine plant for sale Red Jade Vine (Mucuna Bennettii)

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Description

jade vine plant for sale Red Jade Vine (Mucuna Bennettii)There are spectacular flowering vines and then there is the Red Jade Vine (Mucuna bennettii). Native to the tropical rainforests of Papua New Guinea and distributed across the islands from Sulawesi to Vanuatu, it produces pendant racemes of fiery scarlet, claw shaped flowers that hang in chandelier like clusters up to 90120 cm long each raceme a cascade of dozens of vivid blooms that drip with nectar and attract birds from a distance. It is a

There are spectacular flowering vines — and then there is the Red Jade Vine (Mucuna bennettii). Native to the tropical rainforests of Papua New Guinea and distributed across the islands from Sulawesi to Vanuatu, it produces pendant racemes of fiery scarlet, claw-shaped flowers that hang in chandelier-like clusters up to 90–120 cm long — each raceme a cascade of dozens of vivid blooms that drip with nectar and attract birds from a distance. It is a vigorous, woody climber that grows fast and reaches impressive size, requiring a strong tree, pergola, or trellis to support it. In India's tropical and subtropical climate it is completely at home outdoors year-round — and a well-established vine in full flower is genuinely one of the most dramatic sights in the plant world.

💡 The Most Important Rule — Sun on Top, Shade on the Roots Red Jade Vine has an unusual requirement that catches many growers off-guard: the canopy wants full sun, but the roots must stay cool and shaded. Plant at the base of a tree or pergola where the root zone stays naturally shaded, or mulch the root area heavily (7–10 cm deep) to keep it cool. Exposed, sun-baked roots cause chronic stress, yellowing, and failure to flower — even when the vine above looks healthy.
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Light

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Full sun to bright partial shade for the canopy — at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily produces the most vigorous growth and flowering. South or west-facing open garden positions are ideal. Roots must be kept shaded at all times — see note above.

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Watering

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Keep soil consistently moist during the growing season — water deeply 2–3 times a week in warm weather. Allow the top few centimetres to dry slightly between waterings; the vine tolerates brief dry spells but not prolonged drought. Mulch heavily to retain soil moisture and keep roots cool. Reduce watering in cooler months.

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Humidity

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Moderate to high humidity preferred — thrives in India's tropical outdoor climate without intervention. For potted specimens in drier conditions, mist the foliage in the morning. Sensitive to cold dry air below 13°C — bring indoors or protect during cold spells.

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Growing Media

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Deep, rich, well-draining organic soil. Mix 35% loamy garden soil, 35% well-rotted compost or FYM, 20% coarse sand or perlite, 10% coco coir. pH 6.0–7.5. For pots, use the largest container possible — at least 45–50 cm wide and deep. Mulch the surface 7–10 cm deep. In-ground planting is strongly preferred for mature plants.

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Feeding

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Feed with a balanced or phosphorus-rich fertilizer (low nitrogen) every 6–8 weeks during the growing season. High nitrogen promotes excessive leaf growth at the direct expense of flowering — avoid it. Top-dress with well-rotted compost every 3 months. Stop feeding in winter.

🌸 Flowering — What to Expect and When Red Jade Vine typically flowers from its second year onwards, with blooms appearing in autumn and winter. Each raceme takes weeks to develop fully — do not disturb the vine once buds are forming. Prune immediately after flowering to encourage strong new growth for the next season's flowers. Consistent bright light, cool roots, and low-nitrogen feeding are the three most reliable triggers for flowering.
⚠️ Common Issues & Quick Fixes

Yellow Leaves

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The most common symptom — almost always caused by cold temperatures below 13°C or overheated, sun-exposed roots. Check temperature and ensure the root zone is shaded and mulched. Overwatering or poor drainage can also cause yellowing — check soil conditions.

Not Flowering

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Most likely causes: plant under 2 years old, roots in direct sun, too much nitrogen fertilizer, or insufficient light. Ensure roots are shaded and mulched, switch to a low-nitrogen bloom fertilizer, and ensure the canopy gets at least 6 hours of sun. Flowering peaks in autumn — patience through summer is essential.

Slow Growth

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Insufficient light, poor soil nutrition, or a pot that is too small. Move to a sunnier position, enrich the soil with compost, and ensure the container is large enough — or plant in-ground. This vine grows vigorously once established in the right conditions.

Leaf Drop

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Cold temperatures below 13°C cause rapid leaf drop. Protect from cold and bring potted plants indoors or under cover during cold spells. Resume normal care once temperatures stabilise above 15°C — new leaves will emerge.

Mealybugs or Spider Mites

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Inspect leaf undersides and stem joints. Spray thoroughly with diluted neem oil or insecticidal soap every 7–10 days for 3 weeks. Good air circulation and adequate watering reduce pest pressure significantly.

📋 Quick Plant Profile

Botanical Name Mucuna bennettii F.Muell.
Common Names Red Jade Vine, New Guinea Creeper, Flame of the Forest
Family Fabaceae (legume / pea family)
Origin Papua New Guinea; Sulawesi to Vanuatu
Flower Description Fiery scarlet, claw-shaped; pendant racemes 90–120 cm long; heavy nectar; attracts birds
Blooming Season Autumn and winter; from year 2 onwards
Critical Rule Canopy in full sun; roots must stay cool and shaded — mulch heavily
Light Full sun to bright partial shade (canopy); roots shaded at all times
Watering Consistently moist; 2–3 times a week in warm weather; mulch to retain moisture
Temperature Above 13°C minimum; cold-sensitive; thrives in tropical and subtropical India
Mature Size Large woody climber — 10–15 m at full maturity; needs strong support
Support Required Large tree, strong pergola, or heavy-duty trellis — essential
Fertilizer Note Low nitrogen — high nitrogen suppresses flowering
Pruning Prune after flowering in early spring to encourage new growth
Ideal For Tropical Gardens, Pergolas, Large Trees, Statement Climbers, Bird Gardens
Care Level Intermediate — shaded roots and low nitrogen are the two key requirements
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Verified Purchase
morey smith
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to apply.
Size: 4 Oz
Product did a great job renewing my plastic house shutters. It brought back the deep rich color and made them look better the new.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 27, 2026
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Stuart R. Stengel
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
Great Stuff
Size: 120 ML
Product is good, Easy to spread for the most part. The only complaint I would give it is that the applicators do not hole up after several applications, I would suggest using a microfiber cloth to apply.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 1, 2026
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Teresa Wilson
Fort Morgan, US
★★★★★ 5
Restored My Trim Instantly
Size: 120 ML
I used this plastic restorer on the faded trim around my SUV, and the difference was immediate. The dull gray plastic turned back to a rich black color within minutes. It spreads evenly and doesn’t leave greasy streaks behind. After a few weeks and several rainy days, the finish still looks great. My car honestly looks years newer now.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Eric J. Jenislawski
New York, US
★★★★★ 5
Great result, exceptional value, and easy, forgiving application.
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I am thoroughly pleased with the results of this product, and the application was easier than I expected. Outstanding stuff. I am writing a longer review in case it helps people who are unsure about a "once and done" product that calls itself permanent. It's not hard to apply. It is forgiving and there's time to even it out. But here are some things to anticipate. My use case: I used Cerakote to restore the plastic trim on a used 2014 black Dodge Challenger that had been repainted but the plastic trim was original and it had been kept outside by the prior owner, so the contrast between the new paint and faded trim was noticeable. The trim was originally a deep, dark gray (it is never as black as the paint). It had faded to a medium-gray in many places: running boards on the side beneath the door, below the read bumper (which were also somewhat worn from debris), around the tail lights, and the plastic piece beneath the windshield wipers between the windshield and the hood. These were all looking weathered. The trim was very oxidized in some places, chalky grey near the hood and around the back bumper. The plastic around the tail lights also had light streaks in it from where water drains down from the trunk. What else I tried before I tried Cerakote: I got middling results from Mother's Back to Black. It looked somewhat better for a week or two, and then it went back to looking as before. Not impressed. I got a tip online to try rubbing the plastic trim with a melamine magic eraser, so I did that next, and this made a significant difference. Melamine is abrasive, so be careful if you do this on your trim. I went gently, up-and-down, side-to-side and in small circles, by hand, with gentle pressure like one would with a polishing compound. By removing the oxidation, the plastic was a few shades darker in the worst spots and the streaking on the rear tail light piece was gone. The rough spots on the trim at the bottom of the car and around the wheels looked somewhat better. But it certainly did not "like new." Cerakote experience: I decided to give Cerakote a try based on the video and good reviews. Bam! Back to factory-like deep dark gray. I wish I had taken pictures. It's incredible. Fully satisfied! I had already washed the trim with Dawn dish soap. I started with the trim bone dry. You are warned everywhere that water droplets will ruin the result, so don't expect to do this process right after you wash the car unless you like to live dangerously and have compressed air to spray cracks and crevices. I was worried that application would be streaky if I didn't do it right. Not so. It is forgiving. Here's what I learned. 1) The first 20% of what you'll get out of the packet goes on heavy with the lightest touch. One packet goes a long way. The next 60% is the "normal" application. This goes on the easiest. You can really milk the last drop out of each towelette, but I didn't because the last 20% of what you can get out of it by rubbing it really hard comes out very light and is not worth the uneven application unless you have some random area you don't care much about and want to use the remainder for that. I only used 5 packets to do the whole car. When you start a new packet, the beginning is where you might want to go back later and even it out once the application gets more normal. Or better, start a new packet on a big section to spread it around well and then move to smaller trim when the towelette is less fresh. 2) You've got time to work with it and make corrections. It stayed liquid like water for at least 20 minutes in my conditions: about 80 degrees, not very humid, indirect sunlight on an 80 degree car. Don't apply in direct sun or on a hot car. The product then gets sticky as it cures, but you can still work with it during the sticky time, rubbing it in and spreading it evenly with the towelette. I did not use a microfiber to "knock down" heavy spots. I just came back around with the towelette. I think a dry microfiber might pull off too much product. When it is half-cured, it is sticky and you can buff it with the towelette at this stage to further flatten and even things out. Work in sections, one piece of trim at a time. 3) Overlaps won't show as long as you rub it all in thoroughly. I tried the overlapping parallel passes method that they recommend, and this works pretty well. I was worried that I might get a "double heavy" streak where the passes overlap but this not so unless the towelette is fresh, but this is fixable. You can do a pretty natural, casual back-and-forth motion for the most part and it comes out fine. This is NOT a super-finicky product. I made a second or third back-and-forth pass in a few areas, and used circular motion in some places where the trim was textured or a little rough from wear, and it all looked even in the end. Just rub it down into the plastic and even out the sheen while it is uncured and it's good. 4) It cures like you see it when it's still wet. It doesn't lighten up very much as it cures. It just looks a little less wet. So get it right by eye when it is wet and that's pretty much what you will still have in an hour when it is cured. 5) Don't miss a spot! You'll see it for sure if you do because the different is so dramatic. And a "second coat" is not easy or recommended. This is the only once-and-done part that you want to get right, and you have plenty of cure time to be thorough. 6) Use the folded corner of the towelette to get into small corners and edges, like where the trim meets the paint or has an inside corner or some little nook. A fresh towelette is great for getting into small areas because a feather touch applies plenty of product when the towelette is fresh. The trim now looks amazing and I am entirely satisfied. I will use Cerakote on my other vehicles. The only minor con is a strong ammonia smell when you are up close to it while it is wet. No smell once it is cured. I would definitely wear the recommended gloves while applying. As others say, you will probably drop that towelette on the ground. It's slippery when wet. Keep it folded in quarters as it comes for ease of application. Turn to a new quarter once a side gets dirty or dry and fold it inside out for four more quarters to use. Bonus, but off-label -- at your own risk: The product is not intended for the soft rubber around the windows, but I tried it there too, and it looks amazing. All I did was wash the rubber with dish soap like the trim, and I rubbed it a few times with a wet microfiber cloth to get the superficial layer of oxidized rubber off. Then I applied Cerakote. It looks great. The rubber used to be blotchy and faded. The microfiber evened this out a little. I would not use melamine on the rubber -- this made it look worse in a test section. The Cerakote made it look great: jet black, much shiner, and much more even looking. Not quite "brand new" but far better than I thought possible. I thought I might need to replace the rubber. Now it's looking great next to the jet-black new paint. This afterthought use alone was worth the money. Can you apply a second coat the next day? They don't say you can, and I don't recommend it. This is meant to be one-shot, which is why you should check to make sure you don't miss any spots. I had two areas where I tried a second coat the next day. The first was on the plastic trim between the windshield and the hood. I didn't rub this trim much with melamine beforehand so there was a lighter area (light grey originally, the worst spot) that didn't get as black as the other sections so I did it again, which helped a little, but not much. I didn't wash this area with soap beforehand because I wasn't intending to fix it until I got going. Once you put things back to black you will start noticing other faded things more. Likewise, I did a second coat on the very top of the soft rubber at the bottom of the windows (the part which faces upward and thus gets the most sun), it wasn't as shiny as the other parts, so I went over that section gently again the next day with a fresh towelette. As soon as I did it, I thought it was a mistake. This didn't go well initially because the cured coating is very hydrophobic so the new, wet, Cerakote of the second coat goes on smooth initially and then "puddles up" into little droplets a few minutes later. It doesn't want to stick to the first coat. I thought I had messed it up, but I let it cure a little until the sticky phase, and spread it out again with the towelette. It stayed that time but gathered back a little into some streaks. I spread it once more a few minutes later and it looked good. It stayed even. It looks just fine a few days later, so I think it cured OK. I hope this product last for months as advertised. Even if it doesn't I would totally do it again because the results are superior, I still have half my towelettes left, and the product is not expensive. 10/10 would do again and will recommend to everyone.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Robert Barger
Waukegan, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to use, amazing results
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
This is an awesome product that is easy to use and has amazing results. My plastic trim never looked so good.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2026

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